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Model Trainning Standarts for Voluntary Leaders and Instructors. |
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FOREWORD.
Our member federations asked the UIAA to develop model training standards for voluntary leaders and instructors so that they can base their own training courses on widely accepted principles and standards. This work was undertaken by the members of the UIAA Mountaineering Commission with help from many others from many different countries. To date twenty two standards in seven countries have been approved with a further four countries being processed and inquiries from another eleven. This shows that a wide acceptance of these standards as good practice is already happening. However the test of their success can only truly be measured if they result in a reduction in the rate of accidents in the mountains. Although there is no replacing experience there is no doubt that good initial training can make those early days in the mountains much safer. I would like to compliment and thank all the members of the UIAA Mountaineering Commission for the work they have put in preparing these standards and to all those people who have helped. In addition I would like to thank those federations that have adopted them and have given feedback on making improvements.
PREFACE.
The UIAA Model Training Standards for Voluntary Leaders and Instructors have been established in cooperation with the UIAA Mountaineering Commission. Access to the mountains remains free for everybody and these standrads have not been prepared to try to regulate practice but to make an important contribution to mountain security and the development of mountaineering activities and alpinism. Our aim is to distribute these standards in order to lead to an improvement of technical knowledge, to prevent mountain accidents and to increase the quality of mountaineering activities. These standards were ratified by the General Assembly held in October 1993, Santiago de Chile. Those who have cooperated in this project are:
Alan Blackshaw BMC, Chair of the Mountaineering
Commission
1. INTRODUCTION.
1.1 The UIAA is concerned to promote mountain training as an important aspect of the development of mountaineering and has given responsibility for this to its Mountai-neering Commission, working in collaboration with member Federations and other organisations as ap-propriate.
1.2
The UIAA Mountaineering Commission is frequently asked by member Federations
for advice about mountain training standards and methods.
1.3 If the standards are followed widely by member Federations, this might gradually encourage widespread international acceptance of the UIAA model standards as defi-ning accepted good practice in mou-ntain training, while leaving total discretion to member Federations to apply them in their own countries as they wish. The UIAA believe that the existence of such international standards will help to ensure a uniform minimum stan-dard of good practice beneficial both to the leaders concerned and those undergoing instruction or being led.
1.4 The UIAA also believes that it would be desirable for there to be a system of mutual recognition of UIAA standard leader qualifications between members of the UIAA so that voluntary leaders trained in one member country, in accordance with the UIAA model sta-ndards, may operate freely in other member countries. This would bring obvious benefits in facilitating mountaineering by voluntary groups in different coun-tries and regions, and thus support UIAA objectives of encouraging international mountaineering. The Mountaineering Commission recognises that this may need time to develop, in consultation with member Federations, taking account of legal issues.
1.5 The present standards cover the following main qualifications for voluntary mountain leaders or instructors:
- Mountain-walking (chapter 4) The UIAA Mountaineering Commission would be pleased to add further standards as necessary to meet the needs of member Federations.
1.6
It is emphasised that the standards apply only to voluntary leaders
and that professional guides, instructors and leaders may have additional
requirements. In a case where a member Federation wishes to
1.7 The UIAA is committed to promoting equal opportunities for all people taking part in climbing and mountaineering. Training Schemes will be expected to demonstate a positive attitude towards equal opportunities.
1.8. The Commission will revise the standards as necessary from time to time, taking account of the experience of member Federations and others.
2. THE UIAA SCHEME OF MODEL TRAINING STANDARDS.
2.1 This chapter defines the general arrangements for the UIAA scheme of model training standards.
2.2 Organisation and Administration The UIAA Mountaineering Commission has responsibility for organising and administering the Scheme, reporting to the UIAA Committee and the UIAA Council, which have the final responsibility.
2.3 For these purposes the Mountaineering Commission has a sub-group on mountain training, comprising both members of the Commission and experts in mountain trai-ning appointed on their recommendation.
2.4 A uniform basis for the UIAA Model Standards The title 'UIAA Standard' indicates the completion of structured training validated by examination. The award is an indication of the levels and abilities attained in technical and teaching areas, as well as those of safety, security and nature protection in the mountains.
2.5 The Mountaineering Commission proposes, as far as possible, a common format for all of the model training standards in the UIAA Scheme, though the level of skills and experience required will vary according to the needs of the particular standard. By providing for the maximum uniformity in the coverage of the standards, the UIAA Mountaineering Commission hopes to ensure that each of the individual standards is comprehensive and to encourage the use of modular training programmes at the various levels, so that duplication in examinations and assessments may as far as possible be avoided. This is defined further in chapter 3 below.
2.6
Application of the Standards by Member Federations As noted above (para
1.2) the present standards only define accepted international good practice
and it is for member Federations to apply them in their own
2.8 UIAA Approval Where a member Federation considers that its training programmes meet the minimum UIAA standard for any particular course it may request the UIAA to approve the programme or course.
2.9 In such a case the Mountaineering Commission would need to satisfy itself that the member Federation concerned is applying the relevant UIAA model standard correctly and that it has suitable training procedures, staffing, and monitoring arrangements to ensure that its programmes consistently meet that standard. The Mountaineering Commission would normally arrange to send a suitably qualified person (or persons) to the member Federation concerned, who would subsequently report to the Mountainee-ring Commission with recommendations. All of the costs of such a visit, including any salaries, would normally be met by the member Federation requesting the approval, but the Mountaineering Commission should be informed in cases where this might cause difficulty.
2.10 Where the Mountaineering Commission is satisfied that the member Federation meets the model standard for any particular level of qualification it may grant its approval for that programme or course. The Commission hopes that in due time it will be possible to develop the Scheme so the member Federation concerned might be authorised to use the UIAA label, alongside its own, on the carnet issued to the holders of the awards, as explained in paragraphs 2.12-14 below. Such approvals would be listed from time to time in The UIAA Bulletin.
2.11 The authorisation would be valid initially for a period of 5 years and the Mountaineering Commission would be expected to monitor the programmes or course involved from time to time and to agree with the member Federation concerned the basis for renewing the approval at 5 year intervals. The costs of this work would in principle be borne by the recipient member Federation concerned.
2.12 UIAA Identity Card or Carnet The UIAA Mountaineering Commission is designing a standard format for a carnet or identity card for each of the present proposed UIAA Model Standards.
2.14 In the event that a member Federation obtains UIAA agreement that its mountain training programmes meet the UIAA Model Standards concerned (see paragraphs 2.8-11 above), that Federation will be authorised to issue the carnet or identity card to its holders of qualifications meeting the respective UIAA Standard. Such carnets or identity cards can be withdrawn, permanently or temporarily, by the issuing member Federation under conditions defined by it.
2.15 The UIAA may require a fee from the member Federation concerned for each carnet issued bearing the UIAA emblem in accordance with regulations to be approved by the UIAA Council from time to time.
2.16 Civil Liability Insurance Any Federation administering the UIAA Training Standards must ensure that appropriate civil liability insurance is available to each leader.
3. THE COMMON BASIS FOR THE UIAA STANDARDS.
3.1 As noted in paragraph 2.4 above, the UIAA Mountaineering Commission is keen to ensure that each of the Model Standards is drawn up and operated on a standard or common basis and this chapter defines these common elements.
3.2
The common format for each of the Model Standards (chapters 4-7 below)
comprises the following main elements: In each case these recommendations cover only the minimum Standard and additional or more stringent requirements may be applied by member Federations to meet their own circumstances.
3.3
The Common Requirements for the Candidate The candidate's technical
ability is attested by:
3.4
Access to training requires the following:
3.5 Candidates must have considerable experience and background knowledge at the appropriate level for the proposed Standard as defined in the respective chapters below.
3.6
A candidate must also have a full and comprehensive knowledge of the
following items: The candidate should be aware of the possible hazards pertaining to the area of operation and all activities should be planned so as to only include areas for which the leader has received appropriate training.
3.7 A record of the candidate's training and assessment activities should be kept; either in the form of a log book or in some other way acceptable to the member Federation.
3.8
Common Requirements for the Training Courses It is essential that the
training should allow the acquisition of skills and knowledge for the
respective Standard. This is controlled and measured by tests and
3.9 The training will consist of one or more practical courses that will take account both of the universal technical provisions as set out in this chapter and the specific techni-cal requirements for the particular Standard as set out in chapters 4-7.
3.10 All of the courses will be organised in accordance with the administrative arrange-ments as defined in chapter 2.
3.11 The Federation will determine the frequency and length of the training courses.
3.12 The training will consist of theory and practical work. In all cases priority will be given to practical.
3.13 As a minimum the training should ensure that the holder of the respective UIAA Standard is competent in the following:
A.
The Mountain Environment
B.
Legal Matters and Conditions of Work Operation
C.
Group Leadership - the ability to manage the group will particularly
include: D. Teaching - as an 'educator' the holder of a UIAA Standard should have an understanding of teaching methods that will enable knowledge to be transmitted effectively to others, particularly in the mountain environment.
E.
Anatomy and Physiology - as they relate to activities in mountainous
country, particularly:
F.
Orientation and Navigation - familiarity with navigation techniques
and equipment so that they can navigate in all situations and conditions.
The skills and knowledge of the holder of a UIAA Standard should include:
- Maps - use of different types and scales, their legends and the signs
and symbols used G. Weather - candidates should have a fundamental understanding of mountain weather. They should be capable of interpreting weather maps and forecasts and be able to use basic instruments and natural signs helpful to weather forecasting. H. Security in Mountainous Terrain - candidates should have the knowledge and techniques needed to safeguard groups in the mountains, taking account of mountain risks and hazards.
I.
Mountain Rescue - candidates may operate unassisted in remote and wild
places and should:
J.
Bivouac and Survival - candidates should be able to organise and assure
the well-being of a group without support or back-up. In particular:
- Bivouacking - candidates should be able to organise an improvised
bivouac for the group K. Snow-covered Terrain (where applicable) L. First Aid M. Organisation of the Federation and the UIAA
3.14 Each domain listed in 3.13 shall be examined separately or as part of a continuous assessment.
3.15 It is essential that candidates demonstrate an ability to pass on in a suitable way the items listed above.
3.16 All of the examinations and tests should take place within a 3 year period.
3.17 The successful candidate will operate with responsibility to and from the member Federation.
4. THE MOUNTAIN-WALKING LEADER STANDARDS.
4.1
Purpose and Nature of the Standard This standard is for those who lead
parties on walking expeditions in the mountains. It is designed to equip
the holder with training and other qualifications required for mountain-walking
terrain and for the type of obstacles normally encountered on such terrain:
small rock steps, patches of snow and ice.
4.2 Definitions of the Standard The mountain-walking leader Standard is based on the provisions in chapter 3 and the present chapter defines the variations or additions to those provisions for the purpose of this particular Standard.
4.3 Age of the Candidate This should be defined by the respective Federation, taking account of the circumstances in its own country but should not be less than 18 years at the time of assessment.
4.4
Experience Required The candidate for the mountain-walking Standard
should:
4.5 Course Syllabuses The training and assessment courses should be designed to ensure that candidates meet the following requirements by the time of assessment.
4.6
Candidates must demonstrate effective personal techniques and leadership
ability in:
4.7
The candidate should have the knowledge and techniques needed to operate
on steep broken terrain, and be able to use a rope as a means of safeguarding
a group or individual in exceptional circumstances, including: - movement
on short, easy sections of rock and mixed terrain
4.8
The candidate must:
4.9
The candidate should be able to organise expeditions for groups lasting
one or more days, including:
4.10 The candidate must have a keen interest in, and knowledge of, flora, fauna and the mountain heritage
4.11
Examination and Assessment Procedures The course examinations, in which
candidates will have to prove that they have mastered correctly all
areas of the training, will take place during the final session.
4.12 The Award Once the examinations have been successfully passed, the candidate will be entitled to the award of the mountain-walking leader qualification. This may either be in the form awarded by the member Federation alone, or may be in the form of the equivalent UIAA carnet if the Federation has made arrangements with the UIAA for this purpose, as provided in paragraphs 2.8-11 above. This will be valid for three to five years, according to the protocol in the member Federation.
4.13 Re-validation Every three to five years the award-holder should follow a proficiency course, in the field, under arrangements made by the member Federation. If this proficiency course is not completed the certificate is no longer considered as being valid.
5. THE ROCK-CLIMBING INSTRUCTOR STANDARD.
5.1 Purpose and Nature of the Standard This Standard is for those leading or instructing others in rock climbing in either single or multi-pitch situations either with or without fixed equipment. Unless it is combined with the UIAA Mountain-Walking Leader qualification (chapter 4 above), it is only valid for crags that present no mountainee-ring or navigational problems, either in approach to the foot of the climb, or in de-scent following the completion of the climb.
5.2 Definition of the Standard The rock-climbing instructor Standard is based on the provisions in chapter 3 and the present chapter defines the variations or additions to those provisions for the purposes of this particular Standard.
5.3 Age of the Candidate This should be defined by the respective Federation, taking account of the circumstances in its own country, but should not be less than 18 years old at the time of assessment.
5.4
Experience Required The candidate for the rock-climbing instructor qualification
should be:
5.5 Course Syllabuses The training and assessment courses should be designed to ensure that the candidate meets the following requirements by the time of assessment.
5.6
Candidates must demonstrate effective personal techniques and leadership
ability in the following areas:
5.7
The candidate should have the practical techniques and knowledge needed
to operate on a variety of types of rock and be able to use and advise
on: - clothing as appropriate to the climbing area.
5.8
The candidate should have knowledge of:
5.9
The candidate must have the ability to manage:
5.10
The candidate must:
5.11
The candidate should be able to instruct students in:
5.12
Examination and Assessment Procedures The course examinations, in which
the candidate will have to prove a mastery of all areas of the training
as described above, will take place during the final session. These
examinations will be based on:
5.13 The Award Once the examinations have been successfully passed the candidate will be entitled to the award of the Rock-Climbing Instructor qualification. This may either be in the form awarded by the member Federation alone, or may be in the form of the equivalent UIAA carnet if the Federation has made arrangements with the UIAA for this purpose, as provided in paragraphs 2.8-11 above. This will be valid for three to five years according to the protocol in the member Federation.
5.14 Re-Validation Every three to five years the award-holder should follow a proficiency course, in the field, under arrangements made by the member Federation. If this proficiency course is not completed the certificate is no longer considered as being valid.
6. THE HIGH-ALPINE LEADER STANDARD.
6.1 Purpose and Nature of the Standard This standard is for those who lead parties on Alpine-mountaineering terrain (including snow, rock, ice and mixed ground), in high mountains and on glaciers. Candidates must have levels of personal skill and, above all, experience relevant to the demands made by this exacting environment before presenting themselves for assessment.
6.2 Definition of the Standard The High-Alpine Mountaineering Standard is based on the provisions in chapter 3 and the present chapter defines the variations or additions to these provisions for the purposes of this particular standard.
6.3 Age of the Candidate This should be defined by the respective Federation, taking account of the circumstances in its own country, but should not be less than 21 years at the time of assessment.
6.4
Experience Required The candidate for the High-Alpine leader qualification
should:
6.5 Course Syllabuses The training and assessment courses should be designed to ensure that the candidate meets the following requirements by the time of assessment.
6.6
In terms of personal skills, the High-Alpine Leader should possess the
ability to lead small groups in high mountainous regions, regardless
of the terrain, with emphasis on:
6.7
As regards teaching skills, the candidate should be able to pass on
to others sufficient knowledge for them to be able to practice Alpine
mountaineering in line with their abilities, in particular:
6.8 Examination and Assessment Procedures The course examinations, in which the candidates will have to prove that they have mastered correctly all areas of the training, will take place during the final session.
6.9
These examinations will be based on:
6.10 The Award Once the examinations have been successfully passed, the candidate will be entitled to the award of the High-Alpine Leader qualification. This may either be in the form awarded by the member Federation alone, or may be in the form of the equivalent UIAA carnet if the Federation has made arrangements with the UIAA for this purpose, as provided in paragraphs 2.8-11 above. This will be valid for three to five years, according to the protocol in the member Federation.
6.11 Re-Validation Every three to five years the award-holder should follow a proficiency course, in the field, under arrangements made by the member Federation. If this proficiency course is not completed the certificate is no longer considered as being valid.
7. THE MOUNTAIN SKI-TOURING LEADER STANDARD.
7.1 Purpose and Nature of the Standard This standard is intended for those leading groups on ski-tours in mountainous terrain. It covers all aspects of these activities but is primarily related to skiing. In situations where climbing and general mountaineering are also contemplated, or where glacier travel will be undertaken, it should be in conjunction with the High-Alpine Leader Standard (chapter 6).
7.2 Definition of the Standard The Mountain Ski-touring Standard is based on the provisi-ons in chapter 3, and the present chapter defines the variations or additions to these provisions for the purposes of this particular Standard.
7.3 Age of the Candidate This should be defined by the respective Federation, taking account of the circumstances in its own country, but should not be less than 21 years at the time of assessment.
7.4
Experience Required The candidate for the Mountain Ski-touring Leader
qualification should have:
7.5 Course Syllabuses The training and assessment courses should be designed to ensure that the candidate meets the following requirements by the time of assessment.
7.6
In terms of personal skills, the candidate should be able to demonstrate
an ability to lead small groups in high winter mountains on ski-tours,
with emphasis on:
7.7
As regards teaching skills, candidates should show that they can instruct
others in techniques, skills and knowledge of ski-mountaineering with,
in particular:
7.8
Examination and Assessment Procedures The training will conclude with
an examination in which candidates must demonstrate that they meet the
requirements of a Mountain Ski Leader. Tests will be conducted on the
following aspects:
7.9 The Award Once the examinations have been successfully passed the candidate will be entitled to the award of the Mountain Ski-touring Leader qualification. This may be either in the form awarded by the member Federation alone, or may be in the form of the equivalent UIAA carnet, if the Federation has made arrangements with the UIAA for this purpose, as provided in paragraphs 2.8-11 above. This will be valid for three to five years, according to the protocol of the member Federation.
7.10 It is emphasised that for tours on glaciers or in the high mountains, leaders must hold both the Mountain Ski-touring Leader Award AND the High-Alpine Leader qualificati-on.
7.11 Re-Validation. Every three years, the award-holder should follow a proficiency course, in the field, under arrangements made by the member Federation. If this proficiency course is not completed the certificate is no longer considered as being valid. |
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Ian
McNaught-Davis |